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Install a Shower Towel Bar For Added Convenience

 

A Shower Towel Bar is great because many people often dislike having to leave the shower to get to the towel that they have placed on an exterior towel bar within the bathroom.

Not only does this cause a mess when the drips of water are not yet dried, but it can be a major inconvenience for many who are in need of a towel when exiting the shower.

A Shower Towel Bar that is installed on the wall within the shower is not only a great place to hold the towel you will use at the end of the shower, but it can be a huge convenience with many other uses as well.

You can find Shower Towel Bars in many styles, types and finishes. You can get them in chrome, brushed nickel, satin nickel, brass, bronze, and even antique brass just to name a few.

The best place to find a large selection of Shower Towel Bars is on Amazon. Amazon has one of the largest selection of Shower Towel Bars on the Internet, certainly larger selection then you will find at your local home improvement store and also the very best prices on the Internet!!
The first step in installing a Shower Towel Bar is locating the proper one for your specific needs. There are many different designs available that can suit any one’s needs and bathroom decor. Whether you are needing a Shower Towel Bar that is plain and simple or one that is more detailed, you will find exactly what you need for your perfect bathroom design.

The many different models also include those that mount through the shower wall or tile, those that use suction cups for installation, and those that hang over the shower door. For those looking to place the shower towel bar in a location that does not get wet from the water within the shower, one that is mounted high on the back wall will likely provide the proper protection.

If you need more than one bar to hold a single towel, you may be better off purchasing a Shower Towel Bar that has multiple bars that can accommodate hand towels and wash clothes along with the larger towel.

While the most common use for a towel bar within the shower is to hold a towel that is within reach for the end of the shower, many people have found that this is also a great place to hang the bathtub mat when it is not in use and also a place to dry the towel after the shower. Since these items will be hanging within the shower, any drips that fall from them will automatically go down the drain instead of falling on the floor.

A Shower Towel Bar is often a great addition for the bathroom as it can allow for a much more convenient way to hold a towel within reach. Whether you choose a multi-tiered shower bar or one with a single bar, you will find that it was a great improvement for the bathroom.

The best place to start your search for a Shower Towel Bar is the Internet. There are hundreds of websites where you can find all of the styles and types that are available. But, the best part about shopping online is it not only very convenient but you will be able to find the best buys on a Shower Towel Bar!

And the best place on the Internet is on Amazon! Amazon has a large selection of Shower Towel Bars and also at the best prices!

Welcome to Home Cabinet Bars

 

A few months ago I started searching online for free woodworking plans for a liquor cabinet. I also searched for plans for a home bar. The option of simply buying one also seemed appealing, but I was undecided on the buy versus build dilemma as I continued searching the web. Chances are, if you are reading this, you are on a similar search.

The space I wanted to use for a liquor cabinet or bar was limited and I didn’t have a whole room to reserve for a large bar. Having a great looking bar area was an appealing idea, but I also knew it wouldn’t be used as much as a liquor cabinet would. Then I came across an interesting piece of furniture; a cabinet bar.

Since I was looking for the plans to make my own, I was a little bummed when I couldn’t find any free plans that worked for me. However, the cabinet bar was intriguing to me. It had everything I wanted! It didn’t require much floor space, but could become a nice looking full bar whenever the need might arise. It was perfect! I searched for plans for a cabinet bar…and found nothing of any real significance. The solution? I could buy a cabinet bar and assemble it or make my own plans based on the pictures of I found online. I became committed to the idea of building a bar, so I started taking a closer look at the pictures I had found.

I grabbed some graph paper and a pencil to started planning, but then I came across a free program by Google called Google Sketch-Up. After watching a few online tutorials and playing around with the program, I decided it was a better option for me than the graph paper and pencil. I used the program one Sunday afternoon and developed some working plans for my first cabinet bar. Pictures of the first cabinet bar I built from my initial Google Sketch-Up plans are posted here. It was a great learning experience and my most recent cabinet bar endeavor is an improved version of the first one I built.
This site focuses on Cabinet Bars, from building your own to the higher-end Hide-a-Bar™ options from Howard Miller furniture company or Folding Bars like the incredibly affordable Fold Away Bar option from Southern Enterprises. Your next question for yourself should be “Buy or Build?” Luckily, you have all the resources you need available right here at HomeCabinetBars.com to help you decide.

Thinking about buying instead of building your own? You’ll find everything you need to know right here to help you purchase a great one! Plus, reviews of some commercially available options with links are available, all to help you in your search. Want to build your own? My free building plans are posted with instructions geared toward the beginner woodworker, and I’ll provide ideas of modifications you might find interesting.

 

 

Tools Needed

 

Along with patience and time, you will need the following list of equipment. If I have left something out I really apologize and please leave a comment letting me know so I can update the list asap.

You may already have enough tools and equipment, or maybe you can borrow a few things from a friend or neighbor. However, if you’ve been looking for a way to justify buying a few new tools, this might be your opportunity. The promise of a nice new piece of custom hand-made furniture might be just the leverage you need to talk your significant other into supporting the purchase of a few things 😉 Plus, many of the tools listed below are very handy to have if you are a home owner, even if you don’t take up woodworking as a serious hobby.

The minimum pieces of equipment you’ll need to effectively build your own home cabinet bar are listed here:Jig Saw

A jigsaw – This is the absolute minimum, and many would say this is inadequate. While a jigsaw is a great power tool to have handy and it can do the job, clean and accurate cuts will require a good deal of concentration and patience. A cheaper jigsaw will probably cause you some frustration and, as with most tools, you really do get what you pay for. For more on jigsaws, please check out What Makes a Great Jigsaw. At least a 3 amp jig saw is recommended, but if you only rely on a jig saw as your only power saw, be sure the one you use cuts straight and make sure you aren’t in a rush as you will need a lot more time to make your cuts. A jig saw with variable speed and orbital cutting options is nice, but not essential.

¼ Sheet finish sander – A basic little finish sander will allow for a smooth enough finish to look nice, but be sure to have goodFinish Sander Great Deal Makita sandpaper in grits of 80, 100, 120, and 180…220 grit would also be good to have. During the surface finishing stages you may want to have some 400 or higher grit sandpaper. A finish sander with at least a 1.5 amp motor will work.

A general purpose hand saw: This is something to spend a few extra buck on if you can. There can be a HUGE difference in the cutting performance between a budget hand saw and one that costs just an extra $10 to $20 more. Also, depending on the strength and quality of the power saw you have available, you may rely on a hand saw more than you realize.

A fine tooth hand saw: A saw that have a less aggressive tooth pattern and a narrower cut really help to make finish cuts look nicer and can minimize tear-out.

Drill and a few bits in the 1/16th to 1/8th range: A basic 3/8 inch chuck drill is fine. This really doesn’t have to be anything fancy, but you might find a cordless version more convenient…at least until the battery dies.

A few clamps; 3 inch clamps minimum: If you continue woodworking, or have already started in this hobby, you will soon discover how critical a good variety of clamps can be. A couple of bar or pipe-type clamps with a range up to 30 inches would be great to have, but at a minimum you should have a few 3 inch clamps.

Sturdy, level, and flat work surface: This may just be the floor of your garage or shop if you don’t mind kneeling and squatting much. It is important to be able to ensure your joints are square and straight as you glue and/or screw things together. If they aren’t, you will end up with a leaning or crooked cabinet with irregular gaps. Do not try to make something like this in a dirt or gravel driveway…you’ll be sorry.Stanley Saw Horse Set

Two saw horses: A couple of the small plastic folding saw horses may be adequate for you at this point, as long as they are sturdy. If they are flimsy you may lose control of a saw and ruin a cut, or worse, lose a finger!

A basic square: Accuracy is important and a good square will help a lot. A decent $5.00 to $10.00 square is fine and usually accurate enough form most things. Always remember one of the most important rules in woodworking…measure twice, cut once.

Measuring Tape: Nearly any measuring tape will work, even the “mini” versions, as long as you can measure up to 6 feet.

 

My 2nd Cabinet Bar

 

For this home bar I used a mahogany plywood and pine framing. I continued with the laminated bar top, but this time I used only pine from some left over 2 x 4’s instead of the blend of pine and redwood I used for the first cabinet bar. These pictures are of the cabinet bar without any finish or stain. As of today (4/22/12) I am planning to forego staining and just apply a spar-polyurethane finish in high gloss. My reasoning for this is primarily due to how pine absorbs stain. The white western pine I used, and most pine, tends to absorb stains in an uneven way that leads to an uneven tone and dark areas. Using a lighter stain can help some, and there are a few other options, but these will be discussed more fully in the wood finishing section of this site. Also, notice the dark strip inlays. These are strips of Indian Laurel…a strong and dense wood. The simple polyurethane finish (probably 4 coats with very gentle sanding with 800 grit paper between coats) should allow the natural beauty of each of the woods to shine through.

The cabinet strength if fairly good, but better mortise-tenon joints would have been a good idea to make the main cabinet more rigid. To help compensate for the less sturdy joints, I will glue and secure one or two of the shelves to the cabinet frame. I could claim that I used basic butt-joints while rushing or to save precious time, but in fact I intentionally chose to use the butt-joints as an experiment to determine the overall strength of a cabinet made in this way with thin plywood. Thicker plywood may have enhanced the rigidity, but the best plywood I could get locally was the 1/4 inch size with mahogany surface. I think this cabinet is still a solid build and will last many, many years. However, without a shelf or two being glued and secured inside the cabinet, it does have a little flex under moderate force.

My 1st Cabinet Bar

Here are a few pictures of the first cabinet bar I built. It was a tremendous learning experience. I am currently finishing a newer version with a few improvements over the one pictured below. The single most time consuming aspect of building the cabinet bar below were all the panels I decided to make myself. I ripped 2 x 6’s of a combination of red wood and western white pine into strips, and all of the panels were made from gluing (laminating) the strips together. The bar top was also made in this fashion. I had a rather basic clamp table I built out of left over 2 x 6’s from renovating my rear deck, which was helpful.

However, I would not recommend making your own panels this way as it is completely unnecessary. My real motivation for making my own panels and bar top this way was to get practice in laminating wood into panels and also to get more practice in using my hand planes to get a smooth and flat surface. In my current build I am using a 1/4 inch mahogany plywood for all panels, which allows for a lighter cabinet that is just as strong. Also, you may notice the trim I attached to the back of the cabinet (or front of the bar). I These pieces of trim were made on my router table. While I’m satisfied with the final product, I’m not particularly pleased. However, I consider the cabinet bar pictured below to be a prototype, which allows me to perceive the slight imperfections as opportunities to improve my design.